Fashion and Technology: The Intersection of Art and Innovation
Exhibition Overview: Manus x Machina
The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art hosted an intriguing exhibition titled Manus x Machina, which ran in the spring of 2016. This exhibit examined how fashion designers blend handmade artistry with machine-manufactured creations in haute couture and avant-garde ready-to-wear fashion.
Historical Context of Fashion
This exhibition showcased over 170 fashion ensembles that charted the evolution of fashion from the early 20th century to the present day. It provided insight into the birth of haute couture in the 19th century coinciding with the invention of the sewing machine. The emergence of mass production led to a clear distinction between products created by hand (manus) and those produced by machines (machina). The exhibition navigated this dynamic tension between the two, raising important questions about their roles in the creative process and the boundaries between haute couture and ready-to-wear fashion.
Exhibition Space Design
The Robert Lehman Wing galleries were transformed specifically for this exhibition. Designers used white scrims to create a unique experience, forming what can be described as a "building within a building." Within this space, a series of case studies dissected the relationship between handmade and machine-made items.
A highlight of the exhibition was a stunning haute couture wedding dress designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. Known for its dramatic 20-foot train, the dress was displayed in a central cocoon-like structure, with intricate details of its embroidery projected onto the domed ceiling above. Another key item showcased included a scuba knit ensemble, celebrated for embodying the fusion of handcraft and machine technology. The pattern on its train featured a hand-painted gold metallic design, machine-printed with rhinestones, and hand-embroidered with pearls and gemstones.
Featured Activities and Media
The Manus x Machina exhibition featured various ways for participants and visitors to engage with the content. Notable media included:
Gallery Views
A video provided visuals of the exhibition, allowing viewers an inside look at the displayed works.
Red Carpet Arrivals
The exhibition also showcased glamorous arrivals, offering a peek into the event’s high-profile attendees.
Critical Reception
The exhibition drew considerable acclaim from various respected publications. Here are a few notable comments:
- The New York Times praised it as "a stately, gorgeous tutorial… exceptional …ravishing exhibition."
- The Washington Post asserted, "Can machine-made fashion dazzle like handmade couture? Yes, and the Met proves it."
- The Observer remarked that the exhibit might even elicit gasps from viewers, highlighting its visual brilliance.
Support and Sponsorship
The Manus x Machina exhibition was made possible by sponsorship from Apple, with additional support from Condé Nast. The backing of these prestigious organizations underscored not only the cultural significance of the event but also the innovative intersection of technology and fashion.
Featured Artwork
The display included a wedding ensemble designed by Karl Lagerfeld for the House of Chanel, specifically created during the autumn/winter 2014–2015 haute couture season. This back view of the outfit demonstrated the meticulous craftsmanship involved and was a key part of the exhibition’s narrative around the fusion of traditional craft and modern technology.
The Manus x Machina exhibition offered a compelling insight into the fashion industry, highlighting the ongoing dialogue between artisanal techniques and the mechanization of fashion design. This exploration posed significant questions about art, technique, and the future of fashion as we know it.
