Attention Fashion Models: AI is Here to Transform the Industry
The Growing Influence of AI on the Modeling Industry
The rise of artificial intelligence (AI) has significantly altered various sectors, and the modeling industry is no exception. Recently, H&M revealed plans to create AI representations of 30 models for use in social media and marketing, contingent on the models’ consent. This move highlights a pivotal moment where technology meets fashion, raising questions about the future of human models.
AI "Twins" and Their Implications
H&M’s chief creative officer, Jörgen Andersson, stated that the introduction of AI "twins" is intended to enhance the creative process and marketing efforts without detracting from the human element that is central to the brand. The agreement allows models like Vilma Sjöberg and Mathilda Gvarliani, known for their work with prominent brands such as Vogue and Chanel, to share their AI counterparts for other modeling jobs. Gvarliani humorously remarked that her AI twin would be "like me, without the jet-lag."
However, this technological advancement has been met with concern across the industry. Many worry that this represents a shift that could devalue the work of human models and other creatives in the fashion sector. Similar fears were voiced by Hollywood workers who protested against AI in the film industry.
Concerns from Industry Professionals
Philippa Childs, head of Bectu, the union representing creative professionals, explained that while models may receive compensation for the use of their images, the broader impact on fashion creatives—such as makeup and hair professionals—could be detrimental. A survey indicated that over half of Bectu workers feel AI will negatively affect the industry.
Sara Ziff, founder of the advocacy group Model Alliance, calls attention to fundamental questions around fair compensation for these digital representations. H&M has committed to compensating models whenever their AI twin is used, with negotiations occurring through their respective agencies.
The Need for Regulation
In 2020, model Sinead Bovell pointed out the risks associated with AI in her discussion on the lack of regulation in the fashion industry. She warned that when models consent to the use of their likeness, it could enhance the AI model’s capabilities, inadvertently leading to increased exploitation.
Legislation addressing these issues is on the horizon. The Model Alliance’s Fashion Workers’ Act, effective this June, requires model consent for any AI usage when working with agencies in the state. A broader EU AI Act, set to be enforced in 2026, will mandate that AI-generated images be clearly labeled, with H&M stating it would place watermarks on such images.
Diverse Perspectives on AI in Fashion
While some in the industry embrace technological advancements, others remain skeptical about AI’s place in modeling. Lucy Yeomans, the founder of Drest, noted that while AI can enhance certain aspects, it often struggles to replicate the creative nuance of seasoned professionals.
High-profile models like Sjöberg and Gvarliani are likely to receive substantial compensation for their AI representations, with estimates reaching millions. However, the widespread adoption of AI could jeopardize jobs, particularly for entry-level models typically featured in e-commerce shoots.
Michael Musandu of Lalaland AI views the technology as an opportunity to present a more diverse array of models, arguing that due to the sheer volume of shoots required by large companies, achieving diversity through traditional means is increasingly challenging. Yet the deployment of AI models has faced its own backlash, as demonstrated in 2023 when model Shereen Wu reported her image being altered to appear white.
The Future of Modeling in an AI World
Despite the ongoing discussions, many industry professionals remain guarded about the potential ramifications of AI in modeling. Rosolek, a casting agent, criticized H&M’s approach as a cost-cutting measure that could negatively affect the industry. An H&M spokesperson acknowledged the mixed reactions, affirming their commitment to explore the benefits of AI while maintaining a focus on humanity in their creative processes.
Ziff expressed concerns that AI advancements might allow brands to act recklessly, leading to harm in the industry. As technology continues to advance, the evaluation of its ethical implications will be crucial in determining the future of modeling, and experts hope that the essence of human creativity remains at the forefront.
